Technique (pattern) : Knit mystery socks with me!

.The story behind these socks began in 1991, when my beloved, late Great-grandma bough a ball of pink yarn. The pink yarn didn't get worked on and on 2020 it transferred to me with two balls of salmon coloured yarn and one ball of X-mas red and natural white. The salmon coloured ones I over dyed two years ago and knitted into socks to my older Godson. In March my Goddaughter visited me, and we got to talking about my Great-grandma (and her Great-great-grandma) and the three balls of yarn I still had left. She agreed to have socks of the pink yarn, so I called to my Grandma if she would have additional (or even partial) ball of the same colour, which she did, although in very different dye lot. Because the dye lots varied so heavily, I actually had to plan a bit about the socks, and thus began the "Mystery" knitting on Instagram. Here you can see (and knit) the pattern in one piece.

It is not an exact pattern, more of a recipe, so you are expected to know what yarns, needles and stitch counts to combine and how to portion your socks. The pattern uses common knitting abbreviations.

I hope you enjoy knitting the socks!

Part 1:

Select needles, that give you nicely tight fabric for your selected yarn. Pattern works best in uni colour or tonal colour. You'll need little bit more yarn than on plain socks, I used 150g 8ply yarn on size EU39 socks with 3,25mm needles.

Cast on suitable amount of stitches. If you are using the contrasting colour for the cuff, use that. Your stitch count needs to be dividable by 4 (for example 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80). If between stitches, round up.

Rows 1-3: *k3, p1*, repeat ** to end.

Row 4: *slip 1s purlwise, k1, yo, k1, psso3, p1* (psso3 = pass the slipped stitch over the k1, yo, k1). Repeat ** to end.

Work rows 1-4 until the cuff measures roughly 5cm/2", or desired length and you have last worked row 4.

Work row 1 once more.

Part 2:

Switch into main yarn, if different from the cuff.

Row 1 and all odd rows: k6, p2, k12, p2, k6, p2, knit until 2 stitches left, p2. 

If you have a lot of stitches and want to use more stitches for the pattern, you can add 6 stitches at the k12, the center front of the sock is at the middle of k12.

Row 2: move 2s in front, k2, k2 in front, k2, p2, ssk, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, p2, k2, move 2s in back, k2, k2 in back, p2, k until 2s remain, p2.

Row 4: k2, move 2s in back, k2, k2 in back, p2, ssk, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, p2, move 2s in front, k2, k2 in front, k2, p2, k until 2s remain, p2.

Repeat rows 1-4 until leg measures as wanted. If you need more shaping, introduce a k1p1 rib at the back of the leg (for matching pattern increase/decrease 1s at middle back).

If you added stitches at the k12, for each 6s, work one extra ssk, yo, k1--k1, yo, k2tog.

Knit a mystery socks with me, part 3
If you are using a contrasting colour for the heels, change colour.

Adjust your stitches so, that the pattern, including p2 on both sides are not worked. If needed purl/p1, k1 to beginning of the heel stitches.

Repeat following two rows:

Knit all stitches (RS)
Slip 1s yarn in front, p1 all row, slip 1s yarn in front (WS)
If you have even number of stitches, slip the 1st s of the RS row knitwise.

Repeat the rows until the heel flap is a square, or you have the amount of lifted stitches that equals 1/4 of your total stitch count (or more or less, if you know this fits your feet better).

Taffy heel:
Place opening markers (if needed): the stitch in the middle (if you have even number of stitches, there are 2 mid centre stitches), and 8 stitches before and after the mid centre stitch. If you have lot of stitches, you can add 1-2 more stitches on each side before the marker.

Knit until the first marker, sl, yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Remove marker, yo, p1, slip 1s yarn in front in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work
Repeat the following rows until there is one stitch left on each side before turning the work:
Yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Yo, slip 1s yarn in front, p1 in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work

When you have one stitch left on each side, leave out the yo:s at the beginning of both rounds.

You should have 13 stitches left at the turn of the heel.
Pick up stitches from both edges of the flap, there should be approx. same number of stitches to pick up than you had the lifted stitches.

If you prefer another method for turning the flap heel, you can use that as well.
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Part 3:

If you are using a contrasting colour for the heels, change colour.

Adjust your stitches so, that the pattern, including p2 on both sides are not worked. If needed purl/p1, k1 to beginning of the heel stitches.

Repeat following two rows:

Knit all stitches (RS)

*Slip 1s yarn in front, p1* until 1s left, slip 1s yarn in front (WS)

If you have even number of stitches, slip the 1st s of the RS row knitwise.

Repeat the rows until the heel flap is a square, or you have the amount of lifted stitches that equals 1/4 of your total stitch count (or more or less, if you know this fits your feet better).

Taffy heel:

Place opening markers (if needed): the stitch in the middle (if you have even number of stitches, there are 2 mid centre stitches), and 8 stitches before and after the mid centre stitch. If you have lot of stitches, you can add 1-2 more stitches on each side before the marker.

Knit until the first marker, sl, yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work

Remove marker, yo, p1, slip 1s yarn in front in pattern slipping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work

Repeat the following rows until there is one stitch left on each side before turning the work:

Yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work

Yo, slip 1s yarn in front, p1 in pattern slipping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work

When you have one stitch left on each side, leave out the yo:s at the beginning of both rounds.

You should have 13 stitches left at the turn of the heel.

Pick up stitches from both edges of the flap, there should be approx. same number of stitches to pick up than you had the lifted stitches.

If you prefer another method for turning the flap heel, you can use that as well.

Part 4:

Beginning of the round is at the p2 before the cables.

On top of the foot the knitted stitches will increase on the sides of the the braided cable. 

Row 1: Knit knits and purl purls. 

On sole, make the gusset by ssk at the beginning of the sole and k2tog at the end of sole until the stitch count is the same than at the cuff or less, if better fitting for your feet. Please remember, the braid will take some width and stretch. I made the gusset decreases on every row, but especially if you have 4ply yarn consider making decreases on every other row.

Only the top pattern is given, for sole follow the previous instruction, and once stitch count is right, knit all stitches.

Row 2: p1, m1 purlwise, p1, continue the braided cable according to the part 2 pattern on the row you are at, p2, ssk, k8, k2tog, p2, continue the braided cable according to the part 2 pattern on the row you are at, p1, m1 purlwise, p1.

If you had more than 12 stitches on the feather, knit the centre stitches accordingly

Row 3: k1, p2, knit knits and purl purls until 3s remain, p2, k1.

Row 4: k1, m1, p2, continue braid, p2, ssk, k6, k2tog, p2, continue braid, p2, m1, k1.

Row 5 and all odd rows: k until p2, knit knits and purl purls until last p2 purled, knit to end.

Row 6: k2, m1, p2, continue braid, p2, ssk, k4, k2tog, p2, continue braid, p2, m1, k2.

Row 8: k3, m1, p2, continue braid, p2, ssk, k2, k2tog, p2, continue braid p2, m1, k3.

Row 10: k4, m1, p2, continue braid, p2 ssk, k2tog, p2, continue braid, p2, m1, k4.

Row 12: k5, m1, p2, continue braid, p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1, continue braid, p2, m1, k5.

Row 14: k6, m1, p2, continue braid, p2tog, p2tog, continue braid, p2, m1, k6.

Row 16: k7, m1, p2, continue braid, knit the p together to last braid stitch, knit the p together to first braid stitch, continue braid, p2, m1, k7.

Row 18: k8, p2, k2, 4s to back, k2, k2 from back, bring 2s front, k2, k2 from front, k2, p2, k8.

Row 20: k9, p1, k2, 4s to front, k2, k2 from front, bring 2s back, k2, k2 from back, k2, p1, k9.

Row 22: k14, 2s back, k2, k2 from back, k14

Row: 24 and all the rows after: knit all stitches. You might want to decrease few stitches on this row, as the cable is finished.

If you had more than 12 stitches at the centre, continue the tip of the feather in given style and the braid on the sides accordingly.

Knit until the foot is at the root of little toe.

Part 5:

If you are using contrasting colour, make toe with it.

If needed, adjust the stitch count so that it is dividable by 8. (48, 56, 64, 72, 80 etc)

Place markers if needed on every repeat (every 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 etc. stitches).

The decreases are shown in 48 stitches.

Row 1: *k4, k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (40s)

Knit 4 rows.

Row 6: *k3, k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (32s)

Knit 3 rows.

Row 10: *k2, k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (24s)

Knit 2 rows.

Row 13: *k1, k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (16s)

Knit 1 row.

Row 15: *k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (8s)

Row 16: *k2tog* repeat ** till end of row. (4s)

Row 17: Cut yarn with 15cm/6" tail, BO 4s from first to last stitch, pull the tail from the loop on last s.

If you think the decreases are too long, you can omit the last knitted round on each decrease.

Weave in the ends, soak/wash and dry on sock blockers.

I would love to see your finished socks! Leave me a comment with link where to admire your socks!

The pattern is not test knitted, so if you find a problem or mistake, do let me know! I have tried my best to ensure there are no mistakes, but it is human to err.

© the pattern and photos above are intellectual property of and is written by Nele N. on 26.11.2024. 

The pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to sell any handknitted items made with this pattern with credit to designer. The pattern cannot be distributed in paper or online form without written permission of the designer.

Knit a mystery socks with me, part 3
If you are using a contrasting colour for the heels, change colour.

Adjust your stitches so, that the pattern, including p2 on both sides are not worked. If needed purl/p1, k1 to beginning of the heel stitches.

Repeat following two rows:

Knit all stitches (RS)
Slip 1s yarn in front, p1 all row, slip 1s yarn in front (WS)
If you have even number of stitches, slip the 1st s of the RS row knitwise.

Repeat the rows until the heel flap is a square, or you have the amount of lifted stitches that equals 1/4 of your total stitch count (or more or less, if you know this fits your feet better).

Taffy heel:
Place opening markers (if needed): the stitch in the middle (if you have even number of stitches, there are 2 mid centre stitches), and 8 stitches before and after the mid centre stitch. If you have lot of stitches, you can add 1-2 more stitches on each side before the marker.

Knit until the first marker, sl, yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Remove marker, yo, p1, slip 1s yarn in front in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work
Repeat the following rows until there is one stitch left on each side before turning the work:
Yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Yo, slip 1s yarn in front, p1 in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work

When you have one stitch left on each side, leave out the yo:s at the beginning of both rounds.

You should have 13 stitches left at the turn of the heel.
Pick up stitches from both edges of the flap, there should be approx. same number of stitches to pick up than you had the lifted stitches.

If you prefer another method for turning the flap heel, you can use that as well.
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Knit a mystery socks with me, part 3
If you are using a contrasting colour for the heels, change colour.

Adjust your stitches so, that the pattern, including p2 on both sides are not worked. If needed purl/p1, k1 to beginning of the heel stitches.

Repeat following two rows:

Knit all stitches (RS)
Slip 1s yarn in front, p1 all row, slip 1s yarn in front (WS)
If you have even number of stitches, slip the 1st s of the RS row knitwise.

Repeat the rows until the heel flap is a square, or you have the amount of lifted stitches that equals 1/4 of your total stitch count (or more or less, if you know this fits your feet better).

Taffy heel:
Place opening markers (if needed): the stitch in the middle (if you have even number of stitches, there are 2 mid centre stitches), and 8 stitches before and after the mid centre stitch. If you have lot of stitches, you can add 1-2 more stitches on each side before the marker.

Knit until the first marker, sl, yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Remove marker, yo, p1, slip 1s yarn in front in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work
Repeat the following rows until there is one stitch left on each side before turning the work:
Yo, ssk, k4, ssk, sl, k1, sl, k2tog, k4, k2tog, turn work
Yo, slip 1s yarn in front, p1 in pattern sliping mid centre markers, purl crossing the yo, p1, turn work

When you have one stitch left on each side, leave out the yo:s at the beginning of both rounds.

You should have 13 stitches left at the turn of the heel.
Pick up stitches from both edges of the flap, there should be approx. same number of stitches to pick up than you had the lifted stitches.

If you prefer another method for turning the flap heel, you can use that as well.
1 vk
Näytä käännös